torsdag den 28. maj 2015

Hobbyking H4 Quadcopter frame remodelled

You can also check this article Hobbyking H4 - Tuning for better flight & videos

As mentioned in an earlier article on the Hobbyking H4, some of the cons were the landing gear and the thin alu booms and the carbon motor mounts. After a few what i would call relatively normal landings, the landing gear bent and after som time of benting i opted to dismantle the gear. The carbon motor mounts are relatively thin and broke. I replaced these with som alu mounts from hobbycnc. The booms also bent relatively easily so i replaced them with a stronger and more relaiable version.

If you are looking to do the same on your H4, check out how i went about it.

I went to my local hardware store and purchased a electricity box, they come in all shapes and sizes. I grabbed one with the thin rubber pods on the side so the I lead the wire into the box.
I purchased 6 of these alu booms both for the booms and the landing gear

I had to resize the booms to the desired length and redrill the mount holes for the body section. The motor end has the the right size holes if you purchase the motor mounts mentioned above from hobbycnc.


The speaker wire is poked through one of the rubber pads and can be hotglued to keep it in place

The landing gear was made using two motor arms/booms. I measured the distance between the two middle holes on the carriage and drilled a 3mm hole all the way through. I redrilled the top hole to a 10-12 mm so the stand-off screw could pass through. I tightened the the arm with a screw and applied som loctite to avoid it loosning. Using a Dremel I cut the excessive probing shaft of the screw and leveled it. Not so sure that the stand-off screws will hold, but they will do for now. I undid the the two middle screws and tightened the stand-off in their place.



I had to cut the corners of the locking mechanism to have the KK2 sit snug inside.

The battery can be mounted on the back or under the landing gear

The whole box is mounted with plastic stand-offs. The power distribution board is mounted at the bottom, it was locked in with a small stand-off, i measured and drilled four holes in the box, put the box on, tightened it with four low stand-offs. The KK2 was then mounted on these stand-offs and tightened down with plastic screws. 



hobbycnc motor alu motor mounts much more reliable and can take a relatively hard beating, they tend to just bent, a vice or a hammer can be used to level them out. I purchased mine some time in early 14, they are still going strong.

the wiring is done through the rubber pods keeping i neat and simple, i should have repainted the quad, but will get to that later.

lørdag den 16. maj 2015

Rctimer ATLAS Flight Controller

Just wanted to share some info on this newly released flight controller from Rctimer. It is actually a clone of DJI naza, it seems they reverse engineered the Naza, changed a few things to avoid lawsuits and named it Atlas, they weren´t even bothered to change the colour, I guess this is probably to let the consumers know that it is a clone of the popular Naza at the fraction of the price.



 Both controller share many of the same features, the atlas has IOC (intelligent orientation control or headless mode, RTL (return to launch mode), altitude hold mode, stabilize mode.

Installation of this flight controller took less than 15 minutes, the only soldering i had to do was to connect a XT60 connector for a lipo battery, the rest was very simple. The GPS and the LED fit into two connectors clearly marked, the one side of the board has 8 motor connectors and a Power input VIN that comes from the LED. The opposite side has connectors for your reciever. There are three extra channels, the first channel controls the stabilize, altitude and GPS mode. The second controls the RTL, IOC and Off. the third channel is not currently used.


The GPS can be angled at about 45 degrees

The LED displays which mode, you are currently flying in, by using a blue, green blinking sequence. It can also display how strong your GPS signal is using a red sequence. One of the cons in my opinion is the red sequence, the red is also used for battery voltage warning. When the battery is about 50 %, the battery warning is constantly blinking, thus suppressing the blue and green sequence. The battery LED blinked using the same sequence for the remainder of the flight, so is actually difficut to determine the amount of battery that remains.   

The controller can be configured using the ATLAS assistant and the provided USB cable. I could not change some of settings initially, until i upgraded the firmware from a version 1.1 to a version 1.7.
If you are using Windows 10, your com ports will not be available. Windows will detect and install the CP210x driver and it will show up under device manager.
 but the Atlas assistant will not detect or see the com port. To fix this right click on the ATLAS_Assistant file choose properties

go into the compatability section

 Tick the run as windows 8 box apply and save. and run the program.
After reading the forums, you can also just tick the Run as administrator box save and run.
Windows 10 blocks unistalled programs from accessing the com port. Seeing as this is downloaded, it has to be run as an administrator.
This also applies for the firmware update file.

The IMU calibration and the MAG calibration can be done on the fly when not connected to the assistant using the radio. There is a telemetry port provided on the board to connect to a ground station.

Flight characteristics: Altitude mode works pretty well even in windy conditions, very stable, the GPS mode seems to work ok but am experiencing a  few problems. When activated it initially works but a gust of wind makes the quad start toilet bowling and the circle radius increases for every circle.
Stabilize mode works like a charm and the IOC mode seems ok. The quad was very sluggish on the maiden flight, direction changes seemed very slow, the reaction time was often causing unwanted situations. I changed the Trim step on the Taranus Frsky to very fine and this made the big difference,  the quad felt more tuned in. Ascending is very slow, compared to the KK2. Full throttle on atlas is a controlled slow climb, whereas the KK2 really pulls some power and is more fun.

Verdict: Small and light, leaving you with a neat installation. Expensive compared to the KK2, the KK2 flies and feels more responsive when tuned in, but it does not provide the GPS, IOC and altitude-hold  mode the Atlas has. The KK2 is more fun to fly whilst the Atlas gives you the opportunity of more stable FPV control and installation is pretty slick on the Atlas. Never flown the DJI naza but if you are not willing to pay the steep price, well this is actually a good alternative.  

I have now been flying this bird for some time and i must say, it is kind of growing on me. One of the best things about this FC is its simplicity, i have had minimal break downs and maximum flight time. Even flying it in stabilize mode, it is easy to find and pinpoint the hover position without using the altitude hold function. Stabilize mode is much smoother than on my kk2 and direction change much slower. Makes this board much easier to control and gives you a better learning platform. I noticed a small bug, when i activate GPS mode after the first launch i have to keep my finger on the switch as the result is not always as wished. The quad instead of finding its position and hovering tends to rev up and turn away at a 45 degree angle and fly away. If i deactivate the GPS mode it goes back to its original hover. If i land the quad, disarm and rearm the GPS mode works properly. I don´t know if it has something to do with the GPS signal not been bound prior to takeoff. This is a pure FPV controller.

lørdag den 4. april 2015

Retractable landing gear

Ok wanted to share with you this prototype of an automatic retractable landing gear, as always much of the info on-line is always based on people with knowledge of electronics so the information that is given is far out, for a guy like me. Took me a while to figuire it out, but hey, now it works...

Stuff you will need....most of it is found quite cheap on ebay...



HC-SR04 sonar sensor Link
PC Pro Mini Module Atmega168 5V 16M For Arduino Compatible With Nano link
Any old servo you have lying around
Wires or Servo extension cables
FTDI USB TTL serial board adapter module to program the Arduino board link
Find your favourite seller, these are just the first ones that I came across.

Here is how I connected it all together.


You need to download Arduino from here, Choose either the Windows installer or Windows Zip

If you chose windows installer, install the program by running the installer.
If you downloaded the Zip, unpack the program in your desired directory.

Download the following code or save the code at the bottom of the page in a text file  named retracts.ino 



Start arduino, either from the program menu or directly from the folder if you unpacked it from the zip file
Under tools - board choose Arduino Nano w/ ATmega168

Under tools - Programmer choose USBasap
Under tools - Serial Port choose the correct serial port, your FTDI unit must be at this point plugged in the USB with the correct drivers installed.


So far so good, navigate to file - open and navigate to the downloaded code and open.


The code should appear on screen, you can adjust the height in which the servo activates the default is 30 cm, You can use a value of up to 300cm.

Okay now you can program the Arduino board, if all goes well you should see a message upload ok when the process finishes.

Plug in all the components and you should be good to go.



A short video of the system.

The finished product, ready to be mounted





The whole unit seems to function with a small servo, but when testing the unit with a servoless retract the servo does not react. On a standard servo tester the servoless retract function as it should but upon installing in this system it ceases to function. This is probebly some kind of power issue as the retracts require 4.5 ~ 5.5 volts and about 500 - 800 mA to make it function. I have tried connecting the servo to a direct power source and it still won' t work. So if you have any ideas let me know.

Finally figured it out, to make it work with a servoless retract you need two separate power supplies, one for the Arduino unit running on a ubec at 5v and a separate 6v ubec for the servo, they have to share a common ground. So as illustrated you must branch the ground from the servo battery and connect it to the ground in the Arduino circuit to make it run.







/* Auto Landing gear sketch by Benbojangles 2015

This sketch is to allow you to connect your landing gear to an arduino
so that the arduino will trigger the landing gear to activate at a user defined altitude.
I have used a HC-SR04 sensor as sonar which, for me, seems to measure from 0cm-to-300cm, 
depending on your landing gear trigger needs this may not be acceptable and you might want
to research other sonar senors with greater range.

to set trigger altitude change "int trigger_altitude = 30" to your desired alt itude in cm
    
   The circuit:
    *HC-SR04 Vcc connection attached to +5V Arduino
    *HC-SR04 GND connection attached to gnd Arduino
    *HC-SR04 Trig + Echo connection both attached to digital pin 7

   This example code is in the public domain.

*/
#include <Servo.h> 
Servo myservo;  // create servo object to control a servo 
Servo myservo2;
const int pos1 = 15;    // variable to store the servo position 
const int pos2 =90;
const int pos3 = 165;    // variable to store the servo position 
const int pos4 =90;
//data Pin number of the Arduino:
const int pingPin = 7;
int trigger_altitude = 30; //here we define the height in cm that we want to trigger

void setup() {
  // initialize serial communication:
  Serial.begin(9600);
  myservo.attach(9);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object
  myservo2.attach(8);  // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object
}

void loop()
{
  //distance in centimeters:
  long duration, cm;

  // The sensor is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 2 or more microseconds.
  // Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:
  pinMode(pingPin, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(pingPin, LOW);
  delayMicroseconds(2);
  digitalWrite(pingPin, HIGH);
  delayMicroseconds(5);
  digitalWrite(pingPin, LOW);

  // The same pin is used to read the signal from the sensor: a HIGH
  // pulse whose duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending
  // of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object.
  pinMode(pingPin, INPUT);
  duration = pulseIn(pingPin, HIGH);

  // convert the time into a distance
  cm = microsecondsToCentimeters(duration);
  Serial.print(cm);
  Serial.print("cm");
  Serial.println();

 if (cm < trigger_altitude)
 {
 myservo.write(pos1);
 myservo2.write(pos3);
 delay(15);
 }
 else if (cm > trigger_altitude)
 {
 myservo.write(pos2);
 myservo2.write(pos4);
 delay(15);
 }


  delay(100);
}

long microsecondsToInches(long microseconds)
{
  // According to Parallax's datasheet for the sensor, there are
  // 73.746 microseconds per inch (i.e. sound travels at 1130 feet per
  // second).  This gives the distance travelled by the ping, outbound
  // and return, so we divide by 2 to get the distance of the obstacle.
  // See: http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/acc/28015-PING-v1.3.pdf
  return microseconds / 74 / 2;
}

long microsecondsToCentimeters(long microseconds)
{
  // The speed of sound is 340 m/s or 29 microseconds per centimeter.
  // The ping travels out and back, so to find the distance of the
  // object we take half of the distance travelled.
  return microseconds / 29 / 2;
}




lørdag den 7. marts 2015

Hobbyking Multiwii Pro - Damaged USB connector

Some time ago, my usb connector on my Multiwii Pro got accidently ripped, when i tugged on the cable, this is a common issue with many boards with the usb connector. I purchased a new FC and parked the Multiwii together with everything else that was buggered.

Just a few days ago I stumbled on an article on how to connect the board to my PC using a FTDI basic adapter. I have on of these adapters as they are very useful when working with quad building. They are relatively cheap and can be purchased her on Ebay.


Grab your FTDI basic

Connect the cables

Find J2/serial port
GND on the basic goes to GND on the FC
VCC on Basic goes to +5v on the FC
TXD on the basic goes to RXD on the FC
RXD on the basic goes to TXD on the FC
DTR on the Basic goes to DTR on the FC

Connect the usb cable from the PC to the USB port on the basic, Remember to download the drivers for the FTDI controller from her and install them.

Your flight controller should fire up,

 Choose the correct com port and you can again update your firmware using the FTDI basic

Now you can start mission planner, choose the correct COM port and press connect, you are now able to use your board like you did before


Well hope it helped....

torsdag den 5. marts 2015

Crius Aiop 2.0 vs Hobbyking kk 2.1.5

As i mentioned earlier, my first experience with building quads was short lived, I got carried away with the endless possibilities of the more advanced flight controllers like the Crius AIOP, with its many features, like bluetooth connectivity, gps and waypoint navigation, telemetry, OSD. So i went ahead and purchased a Cruis AIOP with the above mentioned equipment. This was very short lived, the first board I had purchased I smoked because of a misunderstanding in the manual. I toasted the board by applying 5 volts to the wrong section of the board. I purchased a replacement board from RCtimer and while waiting for it to arrive I actually managed to solder the missing copper strand on the circuit of the board using a 28 gauge wire.(Thats why i never throw out, what i assume is busted). I had previously upgraded the firmware to version 2.9r1.  I tested the board and it worked fine, so I was actually now left with two working Crius boards. It took me a while to wire my quad as I didn't want to repeat my mistake.

After setting up the board, flying and setting up the board was a hassle, the quad was unstable, flipped at times, had a whole lot of oscillation and was generally very unstable. I tried adjusting the PID and this only added to my growing frustrations. I searched the internet for help on PID tuning but after a few months i decided to give up on my Crius board and purchased the KK2 board. After installing the KK2 board i practically loved it. It was no nonsense, simple and after upgrading the firmware to version 1.6, I flew from dag 1 using the autolevel feature. The board is cheap, easy to adjust using the on screen display and as it does not present the same upgrades/features like the Crius I had to settle with just learning to fly, which in part was an excellent thing. I flew with the KK2 a couple of months and gradually learnt the basics of flying. The last couple of months have been almost crash free. 

Just the other day i found my Crius board again and mounted it on my Talon together with the GPS, bluetooth, telemetry and OSD.  I had to spend hours upon end wiring it together, the GPS and the telemetry share the same serial port and to be sure that i got everything right si I took my time. 

My initial test didn' t work well as one of the ESC was not working so I had to wait 14 days for a cheap ebay replacement from China. When i finally mounted the new ESC, I adjusted the PID values to a value I saw on RCjoses Youtube channel just to see if that could get me started in stabilize mode. If I could get it to fly, then i could use the autotune feature of the Arducopter 3.1.5 R2 firmware.


I eventually tested the PID values manually and came up with the following on my setup


I was surprised to see that the quad took off and was rock solid. It did drift quite a bit, but that I found was quite easy to fix by using the Autotrim feature of the Crius board (well i think it is). This feature is present on the Arducopter and is mentioned on different forums, so i did the same procedure on the Crius and it worked pretty well. When arming the Crius you can use the same feature as described in the video below.



When arming the board (left stick - bottom right) and the board initiates and begins the arming process, i kept the stick in the arming position. The board finished arming the red LED becomes constant/solid, meaning that the board is armed. After 5 or so seconds with the arming stick still in the arming position, the board initiates again and this time into the autotrim sequence, the LED's begin a blinking sequence yellow and red. I took off and held the quad in stabil hoover for about 25 seconds, the autotrim will stop automatically and the board writes these new trim values to the board. This to my amazement gave me a well trimmed and very stabil quad. I have now tested some of the features like loiter, altitude hold and this board rocks. But like i previously stated, if  you new to quad building go with  the easy choice first, the KK2 will get you up and running in no time. It will give you immediate success, but will limit your possibilities in regards to waypoint navigation, osd, telemetry and so on. Once you have learnt the basics, then the Crius board will offer you the ekstra fun. This board is far superior and its features are fun to explorer and use. It requires a lot of patience in the building process, the wiring can be a bit confusing, but hopefully if you start simple, then with the basic knowledge you gain, wiring the Crius is more simplified.
 


søndag den 1. marts 2015

30AMP 30A SimonK firmware Brushless ESC w/ 3A 5V UBEC quad multi copter APM230AM

One of my Turnigy Multistar 20a ESC´s started playing up, I wanted to purchase a new Afro ESC with the simonK software pre flashed, but Hobbyking had the item on backorder and it often takes time to restock. I decided to try a cheaper Ebay esc to see if they were any good. So I purchased a 30 amp ESC for $8.40 with SimonK preflashed. Rather than wasting a bunch of money buying four and then finding out that they are useless. I ordered a single ESC to see how well they cope, if they are ok, i may purchase a few more.

30 amp ESC

The specifications for the given ESC are :

Max cont. current: 30A
Peak current: 40A
Voltage: 2-3S lipos
BEC: 5V/3A
Size: 50x23x8mm
Weight: 28g

The 30 amp ESC came packed in a sealed antistatic bag

 There are no bullet connectors mounted, so some soldering will be required, the wires are pretty flexible and the shrinking/finish is quite neat.

 I had to solder three female banana connectors on for the motor side and heat shrink the connections

 Two male connectors for the power side.
Connect the motors
 Plug in the power to the power distribution board and the signal cable. I am currently running 20amp ESC' s on the quad, mixing different amperage ESC's should not be a problem as long as they can handle your battery and motor setup.

Inital test seems ok, will have to see how it copes in flight and how the ESC holds up.


Well took a test flight with the cheap ebay esc and well it works pretty ok, I am not an expert on such matters and I hear talk on the different forums that these cheap ESC's are in actual only cable of pulling a max of 20 amps even though they are sold as 30 amps, I am not at all able to test this as my electrical knowledge does not go that far, all I can tell you is that they work fine on my setup running 4000 3s batteries, my other esc' s on this quad are turnigy multistar 20 amp and even with this mix in esc the whole setup is balanced. Buy at your own risk, how i do things is how i learn, buy original branded products and pay that bit more extra if you want something that works out of the box. If you are like me and like to play around testing different things, then well here is an option.

Verdict Been running on these ESC for a couple of months and so far flawless using 3s batteries, have now mounted on booms and the ESC's function without even getting warm. If you are looking for a cheap Ebay ESC alternative, then this you can count on. But be aware, these cheaper Ebay alternatives are not tested before they are packed and shipped, so you might receive one that does not function properly, the Ebay seller i use just usually sends me a new one without complaining or having me send the useless one back and shipping is relatively fast so within a week i get the replacements. So thats why you pay the extra dollars for the Hobbyking ESC's, I received 8 working esc's before i received two bad of the replacement that i arrived one was bad and now expecting that to rearrive shortly. But as i mentioned in a working state, these function flawlessly.
Update - oktober 15: Well after many months of flying, these ESC are still solid, though i must mention the last shipments i received were faulty, for every 4 i bought, at least two malfunctioned, took a while to get replacements from the seller and i guess he must be pretty tired of me, claiming that they don´t work.

What not to buy
I also purchased a single version of this cheaper ESC, this is one of the most common ESC' s on Ebay, so i thought i would give it a go. Priced at $7.60 it is just under the price of above 30 amp ESC
The specifications for the given ESC are :

Max cont. current: 30A
Peak current: 40A
Voltage: 2-4S lipos
BEC: 5V/3A
Size: 54x24x11mm
Weight: 28g

So roughly the same specs. This ESC was a massive disappointment. The first that arrived was mounted, throttle range was configured and I flew a full battery, with no issues. The next battery was mounted, the motor spun once and the ESC died. I was sent a new replacement ESC and practically the same issue. The ESC flew one full battery and on the second battery, the motor started choking and white smoke appeared from the ESC. The ESC smells burnt, so I would definitely not recommend this ESC, The red ESC' s mentioned above are still stabil and have now run 10-12 batteries without any issues whatsoever.