onsdag den 27. januar 2016

Analyzing Sony's new Multiport protocol

Hi there!

Been some time since the last post, but there was a lot to do and a lot of new ideas to follow.
As you might suspect with a multicopter like the DJI s900 I wanted to carry a bit of weight with the setup and try to hunt for some nice photos and videos. For this there is a decent camera required and at the moment I'm following the path to use my Sony A6000 (well we will see what my wife will be thinking of that ;) ). But for the time being this is the plan.
Just carrying this camera with a copter like the s900 would be quite easy. But I also would like to trigger and control the camera functionalities (zoom, video, focus, trigger) from the ground. So there is a remote control for the A6000 required.
One special thing about newer Sony video and photo cameras is the new 'Multiport'. It is looking like a micro USB-interface. But there are not only 5 USB pins built in, it also has 10 additional pins furhter back within the camera jack. These pins are more easier to recognize when you look at the plug of this "Multi"-style connector. There you have a hard time recognizing USB pins, but the 10 additional "Multi" pins are easy to see:


Sony has not also some fancy new connectors, but there was also a serial protocol called "LANC" with which you could control Sony equipment over years and years. This LANC protocol is known to hobby sites around the web. And LANC gives you a multitude of possibilities at Sony's photo cameras, video cameras and even studio equipment (VTRs, ...).
Two of the best sources for the serial LANC protocol with its inverted 5V logic levels ('1' = 0V; '0' = 5V) and a baud rate of 9600 are:

Camera remote pinout lists

'control your camera' blog

My first guess after some research was, that Sony's A6000 is also using the regular LANC protocol. And there are several projects for Arduino compatible uC-boards to make us of this documented and quite easy to address communication interface (just use your favorite search engine to look things up).
So situation seems very nice on the first glance, but my estimation for A6000 + LANC was a bit to optimistic. It turns out: A6000 does NOT make use of the older LANC protocol. It is using an new (let's call it) "Multi" style serial communication. I recognized this, after I hab tinkered a Multi plug adapter and hooked up my DSO scope to the signal lines.

But first things first before talking about the protocol. At the beginning of my journey, I had to built my Multi plug. And I want to show you first how you can achieve a quite cheap adapter cable yourself:

You will needed a Multi type connector to access the several signals of your cameras Multi port. Possibilities here are:

1. buying a comercial Multi port connector cable and introduce it to some of your knifes and pliers

2. buying a Multi port connector with a (more or less) finished brakeout PCB from this site: Link

I was hovering my mouse already above the buying button from option 2, but the connector is delivered from Slovenia (as much as I know). So delivery would have taken quite some time and my tinkering weekend was near. Sorry to the shop, but in the end I decided to order an AV video cable with the sepcific Sony connector from a big commercial plattform. It looks like in the picture below and is from a company called JJC. This cable was delivered next day.



I'm very sorry for the nice owner of the shop from option 2!
(He seems quite nice and always leaves kind and open minded  comments in some forums).

But going on, I dissected the AV cable next. The steps are as follows:

1. Cut the AV cables some centimeters behind the Multi plug (OK, i did this later on, but I think now, that it would be easier to cut the cable first)

2. Remove the plug's cable bend protection rings behind the connector (gives easier access to the rest of the housing)


3. Gently cut into the side wall of the rubber/plastic housing. You only need to cut about 3mm deep. Be careful and don't damage the PCB and connector within the rubber/plastic to much!


4. Gently spread the housing open and cut along the cables embedded at the end of rubber housing. Don't pull to much at the connectors PCB. If you pull too much you will rip off some of the PCB's pads. And you really LIKE these pads later!


5. When you have freed the connector and its PCB from the nasty housing, you can take your soldering iron and remove the small cable bits left on the pads. I also used some solder wick and scrubbed the PCB pads clean of remaining solder.

And there it is, your perfect 5 + 10 pin "Multi"-style Sony connector with a nice breakout PCB for at least some of the very narrow pitched connector pins.


With this connector and a pin layout from this side here, I soldered a connection cable for the A6000's Multi port with which you can access all necessary signal lines. Here you have to be careful: the pin numbering printed on the PCB is inverted to the numbering from the great camera pinout website I mentioned. (At first I did solder the wire with matching numbering of the pins on the PCB and the website. But meassuring the pins with a multimeter when plugged into my camera I recognized the inverted pin order.)

The final (cable fitted) connector looks like this:


Layout according to the pin numbering on the PCB of the sourced Mulit connector is:

U1
VBUS (+5V, max 2A)
U2
USB D-
U3
USB D+
U4
USB ID
U5
GND_USB
---

M10
+3.3V (MULTI_DC)
M09
reserved
M08
"UART_TX" / "LANC_SIG" (At A6000 it seems to be UART; No LANC!)
M07
"UART_RX" / "BOOT_IN" (At A6000 it seems to be UART; No Bootloader/Debug)
M06
SELECT (resistor against M01 or M09 for selecting Multiport functionalitites/protocol)
M05
Audio R out / activate camera / focussing (focus with direct trigger cable)
M04
Audio L out / release shutter (shutter with direct trigger cable)
M03
Maybe composite video out (no AV-out at A6000 known to me!)
M02
GND (identical to GND_USB)
M01
Power_On/Off (short to GND)

(This pinout was updated via the pin listing at the end of this post)

Now equipped with this cable, I was ready to set off to investigate the communication capabilities of my camera. But before poking at random lines on and switching random signals, I investigated in the dark deeps of the web if there are already some more documentations available.

On my search, I uncovered some other people who already have tackled the A6000 successfully. But sadly none who wanted to share a bit of documentation for the Multi protocol.
There are quite a number of commercial possibilites available via the web. I am quite sure my listing below is not absolutely complete, but it gives an overview about the recent sold possibilities:

Product   ->

Features \/
Seagull Rec
Stratosnapper 2
CAMremote
GentWire Multi
MikroKopter
CamCtrl
RC Shutter
Zoom
y
y
y
y
y
y
Photo
y
y
y
y
y
y
Video
y
y
y
y
y
y
Photo@Video
?
?
?
?
y
?
Focus
n
n
n
n
?
n
Ein/Aus
y
y
y
y
?
y
Support
y
n
y


?
Price (€)
107 (incl. cable/shipping/tax)
59 + 16=75 (+X for shipping/tax)
68+44=112 (+X for shipping/tax)
100€ (+X for shipping/tax)
~ 107€ (incl shipping & Paypal)
91€ (+X for shipping/tax)
Link
(Sorry for the bad table layout. I am not that good at html. :)  )

So with this overview you can see where the pricing is tended: Too expensive for an Arduino style controller the is just pumping out some inverted serial commands via a proprietary connector. (At least this was the first thought with false knowledge and the conviction that A6000 is using the LANC communication)

With my false knowledge, I set sail for having a try with LANC protocol. As I still have some uC boards available at home (Arduino and Teensy). I pulled up my Teensy, gathered some code and libraries and had a try...

With Teensy connected to the camera and digging out my DSO scope again for investigating the back and forth on the signal lines I discovered the first difference between the regular LANC protocol and the newer (past 2014) Sony cameras:

Sony A6000 has a logic level on its communication line (Pin 3 "MULTI_com") of 3.3V instead of 5V at regular LANC! 

The MULTI_com line was permanent 3.3V. So the camera is not putting out any data on the MULTI_com signal line at all without any external stimulation. Even when switching the camera on or off, there is no communication on the MULTI_com line.

Now when digging in the documentation of the regular LANC protocol, there is a resistor with 180kOhm mentioned. This resistor is to be introduced between the SELECT line and ground or LANC_DC (in our case MULTI_DC). I decided to connect the resistor first to ground as a more save bet for the health of the camera. And voila! The MULTI_con signal line twitched several times and ended at permanent high (3.3V) again.
The communication from the camera looks like below:


On the above screen you can see a "zoomed out" signal trace. The Camera is trying 11 times to reach a counterpart for serial communication.


One frame of this communication is in total 5.56ms in duration


This is a com frame with a little more zoom from start to end


Distance between the beginning of the com frames which the camera is waiting for a retry is 60ms


Gained knowledge:

A6000 is trying to communicate via MULTI_com signal line when SELECT line is pulled to ground via a 'x' kOhm resistor. Number of communication attempts is 11 times and we know the timing of the frames and between the attempts.

Why am I writing 'x' kOhm instead of the prior mentioned 180kOhm in LANC protocol? I recognized the following in my reengineering:

A6000 is answering more reliably on a 100kOhm resistor between SELECT line and Ground instead when using a 180kOhm.

Is it save to lower the resistor value for the camera?
Let's tackle the numbers a bit. SELECT line has also about 3.3V.
At 100 kOhm you will have a resulting current between SELECT and ground of 33 microamps (3.3V / 100kOhm). With a 180kOhm resistor the resulting current will be 18 microamps (3.3V / 180kOhm).
I'm guessing I have a tough camera that will handle this difference with ease! ;)

As my scope is equiped with a serial analyzer, I just tried my luck on told the scope to interpret the communication bits and bytes. As LANC has a 9600 baud 8N1 protocol with inverted logic, my scope delivered the following results:




Looking at the first picture above from my scope, you will see a more detailed view of one communication attempt from the camera. The transmitted data can be decoded via serial RS232 protocol with inverted logic into the following data (in hex):

[6D], [EE], [EE], [6E]

When we use the bit timing of LANC and 9600baud for the MULTI protocol, we can trace down the first byte of the first com block into the following bits:











What have we learned from the scoping above?

A6000 is most probably using inverted serial protocol at 9600 baud data rate

A6000 has a bit length of about 104 microseconds to 106 microseconds

A6000 is most probably using a serial layout of 8N1 (8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit)?

New finding: A6000 is most probably using a serial layout of 8E2 (1 start bit '0V', 8 data bits, 'even' parity bit, 2 stop bits '3.3V') LINK

But for the last one I am not that sure.
Maybe there are some interested people out there that have some additional knowledge of serial protocols and can support in decrypting the A6000 communication.

So what have we achieved in the end?
We gained some knowledge about differences between the already known Sony LANC protocol and the somewhat "new Sony 'MULTI'-style protocol".

And we know the new communication differs from the "old" LANC protocol in some ways!

There are no sync triggers sent from the camera when a connector is plugged in (= 100kOhm resistor connected between SELECT and ground).

(On the LANC protocol pages linked above, you can read that with LANC, the camera is always triggering communication with a start bit)

I also tried to confront the camera with a "Record video" LANC command in a 25ms pattern with the help of the following code, but with no luck. The camera din't answer or perform any actions in response.

I guess the next step is either buying one of the cheap cable remotes that mimic Sony's "RM-VPR1" remote (which can control the A6000), or just buy one of the quite "heavy on the pocket" commercial RC remotes mentioned in the first table of this article.

If someone else already has some knowledge about the new "MULTI"-style Sony protocol (which is incompatible to the already known "old" LANC protocol) I would be very glad to cooperate with other people who are interested to avoid quite expensive commercial products.

Don't get me wrong here: I would be willing to pay for a good and already functioning product some guys have invested quite some time and effort into. But my limit here would be something like 60 Euros. 100 Euro is definetly too much for my taste, when you are buying a product where the hardware is maybe something 20€ in total (PCB, ATMEGA328p, SMD birdseed and some connectors). --> :/

I will be posting any new knowledge about controlling the A6000 as soon I have more time to tinker on the camera and maybe a cheap rebuild "RM-VPR1" remote.

All the best!
Sebastian

P.S.:
Have discovered a forum post (only in german, sorry) where someone has found the official Sony names for the pinout of Sony MULTI port plug:

  • 1: "VBUS" - 5V-Eingangsspannung vom USB-Host
  • 2: "D-" - USB-Datenleitung (negativ)
  • 3: "D+" - USB-Datenleitung (positiv)
  • 4: "USB_ID" - für USB-OnTheGo
  • 5: "GND" - in der Kamera mit Pin 14 ("AV_GND") verbunden
  • 6: "D_3.1V" / "LANC_DC" - Ausgang für 3.1 bis 3.3V Spannung
  • 7: "XRESET_REQ" - Eingang für Reset-Anfrage
  • 8: "UART_TX" / "LANC_SIG" - optionaler Ausgang für serielle Schnittstelle (Debug) oder LANC
  • 9: "UART_RX" / "BOOT_IN" - optionaler Eingang für serielle Schnittstelle (Debug) und Bootloader
  • 10: "AD_JACK_IN" - Analoger Eingang für Widerstand zur Erkennung des angeschlossenen Kabel-/Zubehörtyps
  • 11: "LINEOUT_R" / "XAE_LOCK_SW" - optionaler Audioausgang (rechts, in der Kamera über Kondensator entkoppelt) und/oder Eingang für Auslöser (1. Stufe) im Fotomodus der Kamera (und mit richtigem Widerstand an AD_JACK_IN)
  • 12: "LINEOUT_L" / "XSHUT_SW" - optionaler Audioausgang (links, in der Kamera über Kondensator entkoppelt) und/oder Eingang für Auslöser (2. Stufe) im Fotomodus der Kamera (und mit richtigem Widerstand an AD_JACK_IN)
  • 13: "VIDEO" - optionaler Composite-Video-Ausgang
  • 14: "AV_GND" - in der Kamera mit Pin 5 ("GND") verbunden
  • 15: "XPWR_ON" - Eingang für externen ON/OFF-Taster (gegen GND)
Big THANKS! to those guys on the german forum!
Attention! Pin numbering differs through the web for this plug. 

søndag den 20. december 2015

DJI s900 with 3DR Pixhawk - initial parameters and maiden flight


Hi again,

has been a while since my last blog entry. I already had some succesful flights with my s900 and the Pixhawk. It is a good and reliable team and I'm quite pleased with the performance. Nevertheless I want to go on with my build log to ease the entry steps for other pilots thinking about this combination. 

In this part of the build log I want to give you some hints on setting up some of the more important Pixhawk parameters before you do the first flights.

When you leveled the accelerometers and learned the RC controls in the initial setup, you might have tried to arm the copter already. I had an issue with a missalligned compass, where Pixhawk statet a “Compasses inconsistent“ failure. That means acceleration sensor's forward direction (together with internal compass) and external compass forward direction are off with more than 45 degrees misalignment.
This issue was a bit odd to solve for me. I tried recalibrations of Pixhawk, multiple  alignments of GPS sensor with different combinations of compass direction parameter, but I couldn't solve the problem for two evenings. Maybe I made some other mistakes and I can't tell what did the trick in the end but eventually everything worked out and s900 is performing perfectly. RTL, all flight modes and autonomous functions are working flawless. I find it a bit strange and even scary to fly and have not really figured out why it is working. But I assume there was something like a “Layer-9 issue“ (human failure) with not rebooting Pixhawk after the first correct configuration of compass and flight controller. So my final parameter settings with Pixhawk mounted in backward facing direction and compass mounted in forward facing direction looks like this:


So now with everything correctly configured for arming the copter you will most likely face the next special behaviour of s900 and Pixhawk combination. When you arm the copter the motors may not spin at all. The reason is that the DJI ESCs integrated at the end of the arms below the motor mounts are expecting a certain minimal PWM value for start rotating the motors. If you push up your throttle after arming (Be Careful!)  the motors will come to life nonetheless, but I have used to the behaviour that motors start spinning after arming. There are two parameters you will have to tweak for this. The first one is the “Mot_Spin_Armed“ parameter. This was added to APMs/Pixhawks by the developers in recent SW versions. Of course you can also leave that turned off if you like your motors stand still after arming, but find that a security issue as you won't be able to tell if copter is armed or not. OK there is a LED you can check, but this can be failing or covered by obstacles or cables. Six ESCs and motors failing at once seems a bit more improbable to me.
The second step to get your motors spinning when armed is raising the lower threshold of minimal PWM output at ESC connectors of the Pixhawk. The parameter for this is called “Thr_Min“. You will have to play a bit with the values until all motors kick in reliable after arming asthe ESCs seem to differ a bit for low PWM threshold. Even on one and the same copter. Maybe due to some part deviations of some resistors or capacitors on the ESC's input filters. I haven't investigated further. So after all my mot_spin_arm and thr_min parameters look like this:




If your motors all start spinning now after arming then CONGRATULATIONS! Now you are basically ready to start a first flight attempt if you haven't added any further equipment else as battery, Pixhawk, power supplies (UBECs) and receiver. It seems that without any gimbal or other heavy equipment the s900 flies quiet reliable on the Pixhawk's stock PID values.
(Please be aware that these initial values might change over time and in different SW versions!)

I have recorded some footage of the maiden flight for you all with stock PID parameters. You can tell from the video that these are OK for some first circles and testing. But take it easy and don't crash your toy on the first steps (BTW: have I told you already that I'm not responsible for you crashing your equipment when you are following my hints? HA! Now you read it and I'm not to blame for anything anymore ;) )



On last tip for pilots using the pre-3.3 software version for your Pixhawk:
The automatic gear functionality for retractable landing gear is to be implemented in 3.3 and ongoing versions. At least this is my up-to-date knowledge.
I am running version 3.2 when writing this. Call me a scaredy cat, but I am not willing to trying Beta-SW on a machine meant to carry 2000€ of photo equipment and weighing itself in at nearly the same amount of money ;)
So back to adding retractable landing gears to the pre 3.3 SW Pixhawk:
The workaround is, using one of the gimbal controls in the “additional gear" menu of APMPlaner2 (or whatever configuration software you are using). 
Select the according RC channel you want to use (in my case, Channel 8 of my RC transmitter) and select the correct output on the Pixhawks backside output pin bar. Counting of Pixhawks additional outputs starts with number 'RC9' on the right edge of housing (directly viewing on pin bar ). More info on this can be found here: http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/landing-gear/
When you have done that, it should look like this:


So that is it for today.

Now you  should have a DJI s900 combined with a Pixhawk that can at least fly and raise its legs. Isn't that a nice starting point for going on to a solid machine for carrying some weight?! In my next post I will show you all my setup for adding an XCAM A10 GoPro gimbal with 360° rotation ability.

Until then: wish you save flying, a nice Christmas and a happy new year if I can't make it to write the next post.
All the best!

fredag den 11. december 2015

Poor man's styrofoam cutter

Hi everybody. Still working on my DJI s900 and the next post will be posted soon hopefully, but for the time being I have another little project to share.

Two months ago I bouhgt a small Blade Nano QX. An eighteen grams leight and 14cm long & wide Quadcopter. Partly for praticing in my flat and partly for another small project next year, where I will  give a two hours evening lecture about Multicopters in german "Volkshochschule".
(Volkshochschule is some kind of public adult education center in Germany.)
But back to the Nano QX. It is a nice little quad an I wanted to try to use it for some special surprise on a company party. and this surprise is where I needed a styrofoam cutter for. You will see at the end of the post what it is for. :)

So let's start with the poor man's hot wire cutter.
You will need the following:
  • Some thin copper wire
  • Two bigger screws or nails
  • Something to hold the screws/nails (I used my small vise)
  • Your solder iron

Additionally I used some more wire and two 1.5 liter water bottles for tensioning the hot copper wire which you will see on the pictures.

So how is the setup for the "hot-wire-styrofoam-cutter":
  • clamp the two screws into the vise
  • wrap the copper wire around the first screw
  • wrap it two to three times around the tip of your solder iron
  • wrap the open end around the second screw
What you will get from this is a setup that looks hopefully something like this:


 As you can see on the picture I have wrapped some more wire around the neck of the 1.5 liter bottles and used these bottles as weights to tension the hot copper wire.
Here is another overview of this simple setup:


And a detailed view of the tip of my cheap solder iron:



Only thing you need to do now is heat up your iron as much as you can (I set mine to 450 degree Celcius). Your copper wire will, of course, get hot. And it will have several temperature regions with which you will need to experiment at cutting your styrofoam. 

Cutting will then look something like this:




The cutted styrofoam has some really decent edges and is not frayed in any way (falling appart into many small bubbles of styrofoam; like when you try to cut with a knife). Sometimes there a small and thin plastic fibres sticking on the cutted foam edges, but you can just pull them of.

So what can you do now with this setup?
I glued some printed paper on a 10mm styrofoam board from the local hardware store, cut it with my poor man's styrofoam cutter and the result looks like this:


Quite some nice and clean edgeds!
Stick this onto a Nano QX (or the quadcopter of your choice ;) ) and start to fly:




 

I think this looks really nice in flight and has a really nice effect when there is a small Smart vehicle flying around your flat ;)

OK, the readers with a sharp eye will write now that this is no paper/styrofoam-sandwich on this QX. And yes this is just the two printed paper pages glued together in that video, but only paper was to soft and sluggish during flight and lead to crashing the Nano QX over and over again.
I will post the final video of the flight with the paper/styrofoam snadwich here when it is finished. But until then I wish you mich fun with cutting styrofoam. :)

All the best!
Sebastian

lørdag den 21. november 2015

Making Servo connectors

Making your own servo connectors

If there is one thing that I hated learning, it must be making servo connectors. Everything is small and fidgety and not very easy to assemble, i was a shear pain to begin with. Today it is one of the things i enjoy doing best. It has given me the ability to shorten or lengthen cables on my builds keeping the builds neat and tidy. It takes making quite a few cables to get it right, at times even cables that i thought were done properly, ended up being redone because of loose connections. Thats why i use a bit of solder on the wire. 28 gauge wire is relatively thin so using a dab of solder enhances the chance of a better connection. Anyway here comes a quick guide on how i make my header pin connectors and what you need to purchase to make them.

things you need
Terminal connectors female or male
28 gauge Silcone Wire
Crimping tool
Housing 1-6 slots remember to purchase the required amout of slots needed.
Wire cutters these are great use them for practically everthing, very cheap too.

Getting the stuff you need.

 

Making the servo connector 


fredag den 20. november 2015

DIY H4 home made frame

See the DIY frame in action, no tweeking done on the FC, flown by one of my students who is a complete novice and has no experience with quadcopters.

You might also want to read this article on the CC3D

Well was a bit bored so I decided to make a home made frame and see how it faired compared to buying a Ebay frame. So I went to the local hardware store and purchased a piece of 15mm x 15mm square wood measuring 2 meters in length. The length was a bit overkill, but could not find a shorter length, so i guess the rest will be used to repair the arms, when it eventually breaks. I also purchased a small square plastic box that is used by electricians to mount and combine electrical wires


Measured and drilled four holes for the mounting plate used four plastic bolts and fastened the mounting plate with plastic nuts.

Mounted 4 plastic bolts at the top of the mount and tighten with a thin plastic screw. The screw will act as a stand-off.


Slotted the power distribution board on the mounting plate

used 4 plastic stand-offs to fasten the board and drilled four holes at the bottom for the power cables to the ESC´s.

Soldered the main power cables to the PDB,There is a small switch under the board which enables the power to be switched on/off. The board worked on its maiden flight but suddenly cut off and i could not reinitiate any 12 volts, i did not test why, but simply resolved the issue by resoldering and connecting the main power cables to one of the + and - from the ESC's, bypassing the on/off switch and making the 12 volts live at all times. This PDB is not sold with a manual so the Internet and common sense was the way i had to go by setting it up.


Soldered a JST XH connector to the LED pins, this will deliver 12 volts to the LED light strip that I will mount at a later stage.

I then soldered 4 positive and 4 negative wires using each corner and fed the wires through the holes in the housing. These wires will be later hooked up to four ESC's on the quad.
The ESC's power cables are now done, was a bit of a hassle as the soldering plates on the PDB are small and close together, make sure to check that your cables are not shorting.

Powering the CC3D can be done in two ways, I chose to use a UBEC, I soldered the + and - to the second LED pins/pads. The UBEC will convert the 12v from the PDB to 5v for the CC3D. The second method of powering the CC3D is by using the BEC on the ESC and plugging it directly to one of the motor pins on the CC3D.
 Method 1. using the UBEC, The + and - wire leads from the UBEC


 Plug it into motor channel 1, remember to get the polarity right + is the middle rail, - is the bottom rail closest to the edge of the board and the top rail is the signal cable to the ESC.

 
Method 2. Using the BEC from the ESC. Simply power the CC3D using the BEC of the ESC. It plugs into the one of motor channel, giving the CC3D the required 5v.
 
Mounted the CC3D and tightened it down with 4 plastic bolts.
Cut two sleeves and fed the signal cables to the CC3D.
 
Mount the cable for the reciever port, this will later connect to the radio reciever.
The cable for the main port, if you are going to be using other units like GPS, telemetry and so on. My setup is not using additional units, so this cable was removed.

  
Solder a female 3.5 mm banana plug on each of the power cables for the ESC's and cover it with shink tube  

Drill four holes in each corner of the housing, this will be used to mount the housing on the frame.
At this point you now have a almost ready to fly housing that can be removed on the fly and be used on another unit without too much hassle. Stage 1 done.

Building the frame.

 Cut two pieces of wood mine were 41.5 cm, try to keep the edges as straight as possible.

Drill two holes on each shaft, making sure that there is equal space on both sides. The more centered the housing is the better the center of gravity.

Using 25mm bolts mount the housing on the frame.

Tighten the screws firmly. 

To stop the frame from flexing too much, you will need to cut out and mount an adequate plate, using some thin light weight hobby wood. I used som Carbon that i had left over from a hobbyking H4. I cut the frame and drilled the necessary holes and tied it all together. if you don´t have an old frame, find something that is light weight. The length of the plate can be much shorter. Make sure to check the flex on the frame.

The top side. 

Both bottom flex plates mounted


Cut two more pieces of wood, They will make the arms.

Again measure an drill two holes, making sure that the arm is bang in the middle. You are going to need a top plate to stabilize the arm.

Mount the second arm in the same manor as the first. 


Make a flex plate for the top. 


Mount four motor mounts and a motor, one on each arm.


Connect each ESC to one of the power outlets from the housing, and feed the signal cable from the ESC up though the sleeve in to the housing 


Solder a header pin on to the signal cables or you can make your own header pins if you have the required tools

Mount the four signal wires from the motors accordingly


Mount the cables from the reciever port to the reciever.



Had to cut the lid of the housing as the wires stuck to far up. Anyways, not entirely done, the cabling needs to be done properly, for now the unit is ready for testing.